In the same way that people go to Siem Reap to see Angkor Wat, many travelers go to Phnom Penh to visit the Killing Fields. In case you've never heard of the Killing Fields before (I hadn't before I started reading up on Cambodia), they're areas where, between 1975 and 1978, hundreds of thousands of men, women and even children were brutally killed. This genocide happened during the Pol Pot regime, also known as the Khmer Rouge. The most famous of the Killing Fields, the one that we visited, are the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek, 7.5km outside the city.

It sounds weird to say you're "going to the Killing Fields" and feels weird to talk about wanting to go somewhere to see something so horrible. But then, you realize it's the same as walking around a concentration camp in Poland or visiting Ground Zero in New York City. Travel isn't all about happy places and people, it's about seeing the world as it is and learning about its history. It's important to know about what has happened and that innocent victims won’t be forgotten.

It's also always inspiring to see people coming together in the wake of hateful, unthinkable violence. At one of the mass graves, people started leaving their bracelets behind. Now, there are thousands of them. Small, colorful symbols of respect and reminders that all who visit the Killing Fields will never forget the people who lost their lives there. 

In addition to learning about Cambodia's dark past at the Killing Fields, we also visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, formerly the S21 prison. Here, we learned more about the horrific time period during which an estimated 2-3 million people (one quarter of the country's population) lost their lives, either at the Killing Fields or due to disease or starvation. 

Those experiences were upsetting, but the whole visit wasn't so somber. We found ourselves unexpectedly excited about the city of Phnom Penh. For a country that was in such turmoil as recently as 17 years ago, the capital is actually a really cool place.

It's not that we expected not to like it, it's just that we had no real expectations, which made it easier to love it. 

Hmm.. not having expectations might be the key to successful, happy travel! (And maybe life?!)

Where was I? Oh, right. We ate at many eclectic restaurants, hung out at a rooftop bar overlooking the river, walked around the awesome royal palace and also spent an hour at the Central Market, which is massive and sells everything from bedding to dishes to fake watches, purses, shoes, luggage, etc.

We walked down aisle after packed aisle looking at all the cliche traveler pants (loose, with elephants on them) and Cambodia t-shirts and tank tops that you see everywhere. (Not hating! I am now the proud owner of an elephant tank and I have to say, it feels so good to wear something different after three months in the same four shirts.) 

Looking back, we're very glad we decided to check out Phnom Penh for a few nights before heading to Siem Reap.