On the streets of Siem Reap, Cambodia, we enjoyed some cookies n' cream ice cream made fresh before our eyes on a slab of ice! The experience was too cool (pun intended) not to share. Sorry we can't share the taste!
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Sampling the Local Cuisine: Game Meat, Biltong, Curries & Pizza
During our first few weeks in Africa, we tried our fair share of game meat, including oryx, kudu, springbok, crocodile and even zebra. In case you’re wondering, the best are kudu and oryx - both tender red meat similar to fine cuts of steak. The worst was crocodile, which we found to be like chewy chicken with a slightly fishy taste. Needless to say, not appetizing. Although some crocodile sausages we tried later were actually very good.
“African food” will be different depending on what country you’re in, but at least in southern Africa, it’s usually a basic meal of meat and vegetables, the starchier the better. Potatoes, in their many forms and variations, are very popular. If you don’t love meat’n’potatoes, get ready to eat other rich, heavy foods like pasta, stew and curry. While the food isn’t very fancy, it’s always very filling. Unlike the eating habits of Americans, it seems like African people eat to nourish their bodies and celebrate with their families, not because food is their favorite hobby. (Mostly calling out myself here. No shame.)
Meat is even a popular snack food here, in the form of biltong, which is what we call beef jerky. Biltong can be found in almost any store, from the gas station to the classiest grocery store (Woolworth’s). According to Mike, who has eaten much more Biltong than I have, biltong is essentially the exact same thing as good quality beef jerky sold in America. The difference here is that it’s more popular and thus they’ve created it in countless flavor variations and with not only beef but also game meats and even tuna (we didn’t try that one, though)!
Another very popular food here is curry. Closest in taste to Indian curries, many of the curries we’ve had were distinct in flavor profile with slightly different spices (although I couldn’t tell you what they are). You find all kinds of curries at buffets and on menus - chicken, beef, fish, prawn, red, brown and even yellow.
As you get closer to Durban, the curries become spicier and more Indian-tasting. Sometimes curries are even called “Durban curry” and you know that means it will be very similar to a classic Indian curry. We’ve been told that more advanced palates would be able to tell the difference, but to us it tastes just like our Indian favorites.
While I rarely if ever order a steak back home, Mike and I both love curry, so we’ve enjoyed eating that whenever possible and trying as many new and different foods as we can, when we have the option.
One of the foods we were surprised to be eating a lot during our first month in Africa was pizza.
Now, some of you may be thinking, “Pizza?! Why are they eating food they can get in America! That is so lame.” A guy we met in Soweto told us he “refused to eat pizza in Africa.” Well, good for him and no offense intended, but when you’re on the road for months and months, visiting more than a dozen new countries, you can’t afford to be super picky and only eat high-quality food at nice restaurants. You want food to be three things: filling, cheap, and, most of all, safe (meaning it won’t make you sick).
We quickly realized that pizza is a budget traveler’s dream food in this way. It’s generally cheap, filling and consistent. As any college student will attest, even bad pizza is good. You don’t have to worry about getting sick from unwashed (or washed with bad water) veggies or meats. When you sink your teeth into a piping hot slice and immediately burn your tongue because, yes, you should have waited but you’re just so hungry, you know it has been cooked long enough for any bugs or bacteria to die a hot, fiery death.
But it’s not just the taste and temperature that’s consistent. Pizza is extraordinarily easy to find. Even in small towns in Namibia or on remote islands in the Indian Ocean, there’s a pizza place. Honestly, we probably ate more pizza in our first month in Africa than we would have in the U.S. Not that we’re mad about it - we like pizza as much as the next kid from New Jersey. But let this post show anyone who has ever said, “what do they even eat in Africa” (or “I could never go to Africa, I’m such a picky eater”) the answer is pizza.
Note: in most of Africa, or every part off the beaten tourist path, the answer is actually maize, or “mealies” or ”pap," which we also tried a few times, but found quite bland with the consistency of too-dry mashed potatoes… or play-doh.
Now, it’s important to say here that this post was written before we spent much time in South Africa, so it mostly applies to our time in Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, Seychelles ad Lesotho. Once we arrived in South Africa and spent time in big cities like Johannesburg, Port Elizabeth, Cape Town and many of the towns along the Garden Route, we ate more of the food that we’re used to back home: Italian, Thai and even sushi (much to Grace’s delight). Although we still snacked on plenty of biltong.
What We Ate: Portland
So we’ve got ourselves a series! Make sure you’ve eaten before reading on to avoid drooling on your computer…
We were starving by the time we rolled into Portland on Monday afternoon so we went straight to Bunk Sandwiches and ordered the meatball sub and pork belly cuban. These sandwiches were all-caps-worthy. I’m talking GOOD. Straight-forward, hot, filling and delicious. I wish I could try every sandwich on their extensive menu.
We stopped by Lovejoy Bakers in the Pearl District to take a breather in the adirondack chairs that line their patio. This was where we first tried our new favorite coffee, Stumptown. A friend told us about Stumptown in Seattle and after trying the cold brew, we bought a bag for french press mornings at campsites.
Blue Star Donuts wins the award for first restaurant we hit up twice in one city! We had heard that Blue Star was better than the now-famous Portland original Voodoo Doughnut and needed to confirm the rumor (we had Voodoo a few times in Denver). Well, consider it confirmed, folks. On our first try, we got a coconut coffee cheesecake donut that was decadent and just the right density. Interestingly, for a donut, it wasn’t super sweet, so all the subtle flavors were able to come through without being overpowered by tons of sugar. The next day, breakfast was another Blue Star donut, this time the buttermilk lemon poppyseed. Again, just the right density and not too sweet, even with a glaze. These donuts are the real deal.
We drove to Hood River before dinner one night so we ended up having pizza at Double Mountain Brewery. Although you’d probably go there for the beer, it was actually really tasty thin crust pizza. (And I’m pretty sure it wasn’t just the beer making it taste so good…)
If I lived in Portland, I would be at Pine State Biscuits at least once a week. The Reggie (fried chicken, bacon and cheese on a biscuit smothered in sausage gravy) gives even a Charleston favorite, the Hominy Grill’s “Big Nasty,” a run for its money. The biscuit was big and fluffy, the chicken was crispy - this was so(ooo) delicious. Mike and I split one - we’re learning self control one meal at a time!
Before meeting our friend AJ for dinner on our last night in town, we stopped at The Sweet Hereafter for a beer and appetizer. It’s a vegan menu, which I would normally roll my eyes at, but everything sounded great and the antipasto plate full of hummus, olives, pickled veggies and piled high with slices of baguette, which we split, was epic. And, it was only $8. Paired with a $2 tallboy PBR, it doesn’t get much better.
We’ve found that local recommendations are almost always the best meals we have. This was true again in Portland when AJ picked the dinner spot and met us at Güero PDX. The food truck is located in a food cart "pod," or lot, an area with three food trucks and a microbrew truck, complete with taps sticking out of the side. Very Portland. We split a torta, which we hear they’re known for. It was big, so splitting it left us both happy and full enough to round out our food tour in Portland.